HC, for the myriad of big and obvious reasons.
It's interesting to note that the FC voters have given very very few actual reasons for their vote.
It has an insanely deep and ancient history, İstanbul is one of the world's great cities, it has excellent music and cuisine, insanely beautiful places, and I know quite a few lovely Turkish people.
Plenty of things to be unhappy about of course but to be honest most of them apply to many other countries too.
so do the good things you mentioned. You could say the same things about Iran, Russia or Best Korea.
I would unqualifiedly call Iran and Russia FCs too--North Korea is a bit of a complicated case due to the degree of utter totalitarianism pervading everyday life, which is far worse than Iran or Russia, but I'd still probably call it an FC on account of the virtues of traditional Korean culture.
In any case, Turkey is probably a tier above Iran or Russia in terms of civil liberties and democracies, despite being quite bad at both.
Sooo... basically any country that has contributed anything of historical, cultural significance, etc. to the world must be an FC then? Even if it was a long time ago under completely different states/regimes?
Does that mean you would have said Germany was an FC in 1941? After all, they gave us Beethoven, Mozart, etc...