Day 40: Colombia

[Tetro Kornbluth]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colombia



So we come to one of those countries in whose name embodies something I disagree with. Countries can and should be named after landmarks, natural features, groups of people, even perhaps historical events if they are worthy of it. What countries should not be named after are individual people. Colombia, America, the Phillippines... nobody is worth that honour really. However, I suppose one of the things that politicians and relevant parties have to agree upon when forming a new country is the name, and as 'Colombia' was dreamed as an ideological project to unify South America or at least the part of it that had been the viceroyalty of New Granada under Spanish rule, and what could be more unifyingly Americano than something basking in the name of Cristóbal Colón, the founder of la raza.

Colombia is, it should be pointed out here, a deeply strange country geographically. Strange in the sense of 'it could be a postcolonial construct' strange. The country under its present boundaries is, in its populated regions, crisscrossed with mountains and there is no natural connection points between the various centres. The south east of the country is mostly the Amazon and has very few inhabitants. There is also the equally uninhabited los llanos and one of America's (the continent) real badland frontiers, mostly lived in by ranchers who can handle the regular flooding and the infertility. There is also the large coast, for Colombia is the only country in South America to border both the Atlantic and Pacific, which only connects to the rest over mountains of significant height. Colombia contains Savannahs, Tropical Deserts, Steepes, Mountain climate, and on the pacific coast in Chocó Department, some of the rainiest places on the planet; the town of Lloró getting about 500inches of year each year. In other words, a perfect geographical creation of empire. E Pluribus Unum.

In demographic terms Colombia is similar with about half of all Colombians being Mestizos, 37% White, the rest of African or 'pure Native' origin. Africans are primarily centered around the Pacific coast, Cali being a particularly centre with Chocó Department being over 80% black (also unsurprisingly it's the poorest department in Colombia). As in many Latin American states, in 19th Century the government promoted white migration from Europe to de-mestizo and de-blacken the population as it embraced scientific racism and positivism. There is also a significant diaspora of Arabs in the country, primarily based in Barranquilla. What can else be said about race in Latin America can also be said here.

The imperial construct from which Colombia was formed was, as mentioned, the Vice Royalty of New Grenada. It was one of the four vice royalties which made up the Spanish Empire in America, along with Peru, New Spain, and Rio de la Plata and was then divided into further Captaincy Generals (where did they get these names?) and provinces. From independence throughout the 19th Century Colombia's history was one of disintegration and the turning to ashes of the idea of Latin American Unity, a belief as quixotic as any other form of Pan-nationalism (Pan-Turkism anyone?). First of all came Gran Colombia in 1821 which could agree on a constitution or whether to adopt a federal or centralist constitution compounded the intense regionalism embedded in local attitudes and which local geography fostered. Personality clashes between the two dominant figures: Santander and Bolivar (whose modern reputation of being some kind of proto-leftist nationalist is *hilarious* ahistorical romanticism at this worst). It dissolved in 1830 with Quito (i.e. Ecuador) and Venezuela going in its own way after an attempted military takeover. Then came the Republic of New Grenada which attempted centralism with what was left (i.e. Most of modern Colombia) but exploded in all kinds of regionalist in fighting and disputes about the church and the abolition of slavery. An attempt at federalism, with the country now called "the Granadine Confederation", was tried in 1858 but exploded as liberals and conservatives both hated and civil war broke out in 1860. This was won by the Liberals who then tried their own version of federalism called "The United States of Colombia" starting in 1863. They celebrated by giving out church property to the rich and going on the gold standard. This was unpopular and more civil wars festered in various regions. By the 1880s the Conservatives were back in power and this time went from centralism and renaming the country again - This time: The Republic of Colombia. However, this time the name stuck. Meanwhile there were several civil wars. The most violent being the Thousand Days War (1899-1902) which started when Liberals tried to revolt against the Conservative regime. This ended in failure and perhaps as many as 100,000 dead. Politically it strengthened Conservative Rule but not without Panama secessing, thanks to the support of the United States and the industrial interests involved in the Panama Rule (Panama was also a strong area for the Liberals). I believe I have slowly underexaggerated the chaos and confusion of 19th Century Colombian politics.

This instability and general chaos has continued well into the present. Liberal-Conservative wars continued well into the 1950s, with La Violencia of that era causing about 300,000 deaths. It was only with the rise of Communist groups in the 1960s did Liberals and Conservatives stopped killing each other and realize that little separated them anymore. From which has risen the interminable wars involving groups like FARC and various ultra right-wing militia which blight the country today.


Below is a map of Gran Colombia in 1824, under its brief federalist constitution, as you can see the borders of the regions are nothing like the present states in the region.

[Hash]

Colombia is a captivating country which I've come to love over the past few months. Its history is absolutely fascinating, and not only its modern history but its entire history as an independent state. It stands out in several aspects from other countries in the continent in its historical development, with a number of oddities not really found elsewhere. I also think that despite its size, population and relative economic importance in Latin America, it's not really all that well known (and the popular conception of Colombia is so simplistic and increasingly outdated) if you compare to other countries like Brazil, Chile, Mexico or even Argentina. Beyond just the political and institutional history, Colombia's cultural and demographic history is also a very interesting topic. Of course, the country's history is fairly tragic and marked by so much horrendous bloodshed, and its recent history post-1946 is even more heartbreaking. However, it's one of the few countries in the world today which seems to be heading in a generally better direction rather than plunging down the drain (which isn't to say that its problems will disappear overnight, obviously).

Unfortunately, the popular conception/stereotype of Colombia in North America (and presumably in Europe) is so simplistic and increasingly incorrect and outdated - yet it's perpetuated by the media, pop culture and even Colombians themselves at times. Living here I've discovered that despite its problems and huge challenges, Colombia is a rather different place than what I had imagined in the past. It's a beautiful country - absolutely stunning - and positively, in all honesty, the most beautiful country I've visited and by quite some distance (and I've been too quite a few places despite being young). It has a vibrant and lively culture, which can be annoying at times but is also charming and enthralling. It has excellent food (but not bread) and drinks (but aguardiente is rat poison).

Bogotá is a huge and pretty chaotic city, with all the problems that entails, especially in a country like Colombia, and appears to be a city which everybody (especially locals) love to hate. But it's a very lively city, with so much things to do and rich in history, culture, arts, politics and nature. Spending just a few days there I did so much different things and saw so many different places, that I fell in love.

Medellín is probably one of my favourite cities in the world, from those I've seen. While huge as well, it's more livable than Bogotá, and you can easily escape the gritty (and in parts dirty) urban chaos even staying within the core of the city - and that's really priceless. It's an easy city to move around in, because it has a flawless Metro system. There are also so many things to do and see in that city - arts, culture, history, nature and nightlife. It's a city which has made really unbelievable strides in the past 2 decades or so, completely transforming it from 'the murder capital of the world' to a modern and incredibly innovative large city (the degree of innovation, high-techiness and smart urban planning for the 21st century is really quite something in Medellín). It is also set in a beautiful city - a valley, in between high mountains, with the city extending on the slopes. The climate is also heavenly. Within one hour or so, you reach Guatapé - a lovely village, crowned by a stunning rock formation (La Piedra) overlooking one of the most beautiful landscapes I've ever seen. Someday, I hope to be able to live there.

Cali is less attractive on the surface than the two other big cities in the country - it's rougher, dirtier and sadly considerably poorer than either Bogotá or Medellín, and also less interesting. Yet, if you know where to go and not to go, you can find some beautiful areas, very cool places and great spots.

Cartagena is really an awesome city. The historic centre/walled town is so great, filled with history, colours and so many things to look at. And while the city's beaches are nothing to write home about (not because they're dirty, just because they're not as attractive), within less than an hour boat's ride from the city you can find real paradise - turquoise waters, white sand beaches and lots and lots of marine life. Really wonderful. Unfortunately, the social reality of the city is not as rosy as it appears - beyond the historic centre and the tourist strip, it's actually a very poor city.

The Eje Cafetero, which I'm so happy to have been able to call 'home' for several months this year, is awesome - the landscapes, the weather, the nature, the greenness of it all, the people, the food, the warm culture, the cities and the villages. Manizales is one of the best cities in the country, and I'm not just saying that because I live there. Salento and the Valle del Cocorra is certainly one of the most incredible and impressive places I've ever been too. It's a unique place, like no other.

Tourism campaigns are often silly and their slogans even worse, but in the case of Colombia, one of their slogans is literally perfect:


Viva Colombia, tierra querida.