Day 40: Colombia

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Colombia is a captivating country which I've come to love over the past few months. Its history is absolutely fascinating, and not only its modern history but its entire history as an independent state. It stands out in several aspects from other countries in the continent in its historical development, with a number of oddities not really found elsewhere. I also think that despite its size, population and relative economic importance in Latin America, it's not really all that well known (and the popular conception of Colombia is so simplistic and increasingly outdated) if you compare to other countries like Brazil, Chile, Mexico or even Argentina. Beyond just the political and institutional history, Colombia's cultural and demographic history is also a very interesting topic. Of course, the country's history is fairly tragic and marked by so much horrendous bloodshed, and its recent history post-1946 is even more heartbreaking. However, it's one of the few countries in the world today which seems to be heading in a generally better direction rather than plunging down the drain (which isn't to say that its problems will disappear overnight, obviously).

Unfortunately, the popular conception/stereotype of Colombia in North America (and presumably in Europe) is so simplistic and increasingly incorrect and outdated - yet it's perpetuated by the media, pop culture and even Colombians themselves at times. Living here I've discovered that despite its problems and huge challenges, Colombia is a rather different place than what I had imagined in the past. It's a beautiful country - absolutely stunning - and positively, in all honesty, the most beautiful country I've visited and by quite some distance (and I've been too quite a few places despite being young). It has a vibrant and lively culture, which can be annoying at times but is also charming and enthralling. It has excellent food (but not bread) and drinks (but aguardiente is rat poison).

Bogotá is a huge and pretty chaotic city, with all the problems that entails, especially in a country like Colombia, and appears to be a city which everybody (especially locals) love to hate. But it's a very lively city, with so much things to do and rich in history, culture, arts, politics and nature. Spending just a few days there I did so much different things and saw so many different places, that I fell in love.

Medellín is probably one of my favourite cities in the world, from those I've seen. While huge as well, it's more livable than Bogotá, and you can easily escape the gritty (and in parts dirty) urban chaos even staying within the core of the city - and that's really priceless. It's an easy city to move around in, because it has a flawless Metro system. There are also so many things to do and see in that city - arts, culture, history, nature and nightlife. It's a city which has made really unbelievable strides in the past 2 decades or so, completely transforming it from 'the murder capital of the world' to a modern and incredibly innovative large city (the degree of innovation, high-techiness and smart urban planning for the 21st century is really quite something in Medellín). It is also set in a beautiful city - a valley, in between high mountains, with the city extending on the slopes. The climate is also heavenly. Within one hour or so, you reach Guatapé - a lovely village, crowned by a stunning rock formation (La Piedra) overlooking one of the most beautiful landscapes I've ever seen. Someday, I hope to be able to live there.

Cali is less attractive on the surface than the two other big cities in the country - it's rougher, dirtier and sadly considerably poorer than either Bogotá or Medellín, and also less interesting. Yet, if you know where to go and not to go, you can find some beautiful areas, very cool places and great spots.

Cartagena is really an awesome city. The historic centre/walled town is so great, filled with history, colours and so many things to look at. And while the city's beaches are nothing to write home about (not because they're dirty, just because they're not as attractive), within less than an hour boat's ride from the city you can find real paradise - turquoise waters, white sand beaches and lots and lots of marine life. Really wonderful. Unfortunately, the social reality of the city is not as rosy as it appears - beyond the historic centre and the tourist strip, it's actually a very poor city.

The Eje Cafetero, which I'm so happy to have been able to call 'home' for several months this year, is awesome - the landscapes, the weather, the nature, the greenness of it all, the people, the food, the warm culture, the cities and the villages. Manizales is one of the best cities in the country, and I'm not just saying that because I live there. Salento and the Valle del Cocorra is certainly one of the most incredible and impressive places I've ever been too. It's a unique place, like no other.

Tourism campaigns are often silly and their slogans even worse, but in the case of Colombia, one of their slogans is literally perfect:


Viva Colombia, tierra querida.